Keyboard Test
Free Online Keyboard Tester
Press each key on your keyboard to check if it registers correctly. Every key lights up green when it works.
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Connect a physical keyboard to test keys. Touch-screen taps cannot trigger keyboard events.
Mouse Tester — Click or scroll inside this area
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Press any key or click / scroll your mouse to test. A physical keyboard and mouse are required — touch taps do not trigger key events.
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How to Use the Keyboard Test
- 1
Click anywhere on the page to make sure the keyboard focus is active.
- 2
Press each key on your physical keyboard one by one.
- 3
Each key turns green when it registers. Keys that stay gray have not been tested yet.
- 4
Use the Reset button to start over and test all keys again.
Keyboard Troubleshooting Guide
If a key is not lighting up green, something is wrong. Work through these steps one by one before assuming your keyboard needs replacing.
1Key does not register at all
- Unplug the keyboard and plug it back in firmly. A loose USB connection is the most common reason a key stops working.
- Try a different USB port, preferably one directly on your computer rather than a hub or extension cable.
- Connect the keyboard to another computer. If the key works there, the problem is a driver or software issue on your original machine, not the hardware.
- Open Device Manager (Windows) or System Information (Mac) and check whether the keyboard is listed without errors. If it shows a yellow warning icon, uninstall the device and let Windows reinstall the driver automatically.
- On Windows, run the built-in keyboard troubleshooter: Settings → System → Troubleshoot → Other troubleshooters → Keyboard.
2Key registers sometimes but not always
- This is almost always a sign of debris under the keycap. Remove the keycap carefully with a keycap puller or a flat tool, and use compressed air to blow out dust, crumbs, and hair.
- If cleaning does not help, the switch itself may be worn or damaged. On a mechanical keyboard, the switch can often be desoldered and replaced individually without buying a new board.
- Check whether the problem happens more when you press lightly versus firmly. A weak spring or a worn switch stem causes inconsistent actuation when pressed at an angle.
- Make sure no software macro or remapping tool (such as AutoHotkey, SharpKeys, or a manufacturer utility) is intercepting that specific key.
3Multiple keys stop working at once
- Spill damage is the most likely cause. Immediately unplug the keyboard, flip it upside down, and let it dry for at least 48 hours before testing again. Do not use heat to speed this up.
- Check your keyboard's anti-ghosting or N-key rollover limit. Some budget keyboards can only detect 3–6 simultaneous keypresses. If you are pressing more keys than the limit allows, some will silently drop.
- Certain key combinations are blocked by design on older keyboards due to how the key matrix is wired. This is a hardware limitation and cannot be fixed in software.
- If all keys in a row or column stopped working together, a trace on the keyboard's PCB may be cracked or a ribbon cable may have come loose internally.
4Key is stuck or keeps repeating
- Hold the key down and rock it gently side to side, then try the test again. A stuck stabilizer or a piece of debris is physically preventing the switch from returning to its rest position.
- On Windows, open Settings → Accessibility → Keyboard and disable Filter Keys. Filter Keys ignores rapid or repeated keypresses and can make a key look broken when it is actually fine.
- Disable Sticky Keys and Toggle Keys as well. These accessibility features can cause confusing behavior during a keyboard test.
- Check the key repeat delay and rate in your operating system settings. A very slow repeat delay can make it seem like a key is not responding when you tap it quickly.
5Modifier keys (Shift, Ctrl, Alt, Win) behave strangely
- Press and release each modifier key once, then test it again. If a modifier was physically held at the time of a crash or restart, the operating system can think it is still held down.
- On Windows, pressing the left Alt key five times can accidentally activate Sticky Keys. Dismiss the Sticky Keys prompt if it appears.
- The Windows key can be disabled by a Fn lock or a gaming mode switch on many keyboards. Look for a small LED near the Windows key or a dedicated gaming mode button on your keyboard.
- Some remote desktop or virtual machine applications intercept modifier keys before they reach the test page. Run the test directly on your local machine outside of any remote session.
6Function keys (F1–F12) are not working as expected
- Most modern keyboards ship with the Fn layer active by default, meaning pressing F1 controls brightness instead of sending an F1 keypress. Look for an Fn Lock key or hold Fn while pressing the key to toggle this behavior.
- Check your keyboard manufacturer's software (such as Logitech G Hub, Corsair iCUE, or Razer Synapse). Function keys are often remapped inside these apps without any visual indicator on the key itself.
- In Windows, some applications like Dell, HP, or Lenovo companion apps take control of F1–F12 at a system level. Closing these apps temporarily can restore normal function key behavior.
7Wireless keyboard keys are missing or delayed
- Move the USB receiver or the keyboard closer together. Wireless keyboards typically need to be within 10 meters with no large metal objects between them.
- Replace or fully charge the batteries. Low battery is the single most common cause of dropped keystrokes on wireless keyboards.
- Other wireless devices on 2.4 GHz such as Wi-Fi routers, wireless mice, and Bluetooth speakers can interfere. Try plugging the receiver into a USB 3.0 port with a short extension cable to position it away from interference sources.
- Re-pair the keyboard with its receiver. On most keyboards this involves holding a pairing button for a few seconds. Refer to your keyboard manual for the exact steps.
8When to replace the keyboard
- If a key fails the test on multiple computers after cleaning, the switch or the PCB trace underneath is physically broken and cannot be fixed without soldering skills or professional repair.
- If more than 10% of the keys fail and the keyboard is a membrane type (with a rubber dome under the keys), replacement is usually more cost-effective than repair.
- On a mechanical keyboard, individual switches can be replaced for a few cents each if the board is hot-swap compatible, making full replacement rarely necessary.